Obey x Levi's

I am rarely around Times Square by choice but on Thursday night I went to check out the “happening” of legendary graffiti and graphic designer Shepard Fairey. Levi’s initiated “Obey x Levi’s”, a design collaboration between Fairey and Levi’s. To celebrate the launch of the collection, Fairey did an hour long cut-and-paste session of iconic posters which were then placed on a board and posted on the façade of the flagship store where they will be on display until Thursday, November 5th. Check it out if you’re in town!

On a similar note, check out the bitesize on Emory Douglas in the Graphics directory on http://www.wgsn.com/.

Leyendecker goes tribal

Last night, Leyendecker designers Jessica Moss and Lisa Guajardo showed their spring/summer 2010 collection at Gen Art's Fresh Faces of Fashion at the Petersen Automotive Museum. Inspired by "future tribalism," the designers told WGSN that they love the idea of "the future" as subjective. "We were really inspired by different eras having their own individual visual concept of 'the future'. There was an element of Mad Max, along with the 80s trend that we are so into right now."

The prints reminded me of one of WGSN's current Youth Graphics Trends: Egyptian Mystic, very much about the notion of tribalism and primitivism contrasted with 80s futuristic shapes.

André Paul Pinces' masterpieces

André Paul Pinces' work has been inspiring me for some time now. I love his unpretentious, almost "done-in-error" photos. I am using his imagery as part of my seasonal colour inspiration and have been especially moved by his images of food.

His Freedom Run III - Cascadia Crescent series shows a number of riders on their journey across the country - their goods, gear and views from the trip. As the artist states himself, he could be found at truck stops between Venice, California and Venice, Italy, waiting for the next image opportunity.

More of his unintentional masterpieces could be seen at: http://pincesphoto.blogspot.com/

What's in a name...

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen showed their new juniors line for JC Penney, Olsenboye, this morning to press. I expected something darker and more brooding - maybe suggesting the twins’ own style while playing off the goth-y, vampire craze in the tween/teen market.

Instead, sequined peace signs, skinny leggings and tie-dyed purses looked as down-to-earth as the price point, which runs $20-$50. To market the line a pink truck is driving through NYC distributing hoodies, jeans and cupcakes – a spin off New York’s current craze over gourmet food and dessert trucks. And by the time the truck opened this afternoon, there was already a queue.

J Crew looking shiny for spring

It's spring preview season, and it's easy to be underwhelmed by mainstream retailers here in the US. One exception is J Crew, which keeps getting product right by balancing practical, easy-to-wear separates with true fashion.

They didn’t skimp on their spring presentation either, hiring professional models for a showing worthy of the fashion week calendar. Sequins are a big story for the brand this spring, showing up in matt sequin cardigans in cosmetic colors and shiny silver skirts. The palette of warm neutral shades was revved up by hot fuchsia and corals, and gold knits. Some great wedges and peep-toe heels, too.

BOXeight's live photoshoots

This weekend, I checked out BOXeight's Fashion: Refocus in their Downtown warehouse. Yet another fashion event eschewing the traditional runway format, BOXeight opted instead to showcase the spring/summer 2010 looks from designers such as Corpus, Orthodox and Secta through interactive, live photoshoot sessions.

Maintaining a long-standing title as LA Fashion Week's "party event", the studio was buzzing with cool kids, scensters, hipsters and pretty people wanting a piece of the action. Though a few fashion industry players were peppered throughout the crowd, the event was all about about seeing and being seen.

BOXeight kicks off fashion weekend with Flaunt

Last night in downtown LA, BOXeight celebrated the release of Flaunt Magazine's October 2009 "Eden Issue," which features a cover and 12 page spread by photographer David LaChappelle. Though cover girl Naomi Campbell was a no-show, LaChapelle hosted the event, which kicked off a weekend of fashion installations and photo shoots. As BOXeight's contribution to LA Fashion Week, "Fashion Refocused" will showcase designers including Project Runway alums Rami Kashou, Jeffrey Sabelia and Jerrell Scott and LA favourites Louis Verdad and Corpus. In true BOXeight style, each night will culminate in a buzzing after party.

Jersey Girl

Last night, self-proclaimed "Queen of Jersey" Rachel Pally opened her new pop-up in an abandoned retail space on La Brea. Famous for her super soft jersey dresses and tops, Pally offers her full autumn/winter 09 and holiday 09 collections in addition to special heather grey pieces made specifically for the pop-up. Pally is also clearing out spring and summer pieces at 40-50 percent off.

Taking advantage of one of LA's vacant retail spaces, Pally is keeping the length of her pop-up engagement open-ended and is using the time to connect with customers. The designer told WGSN she plans to make store appearances each week to give styling advice and chat with clients.

TAVIK swimwear does 90s surf

Designer Nicole Hanriot opened LA Fashion Weekend at Sunset Gower Studios in Hollywood on Saturday night with high-shine neon suits and sexy cover-ups. Inspired by the free spirit surf culture of Hermosa Beach and the tough, gritty edge of Venice Beach, Hanriot offerings align with the 90s Grafik trend WGSN has been tracking. Using neon color blocking, acid washed denim fabrics and washed out photoprints and type, TAVIK's spring/summer 2010 collection is an updated take on iconic SoCal style.

Fremont closes LA Fashion on Broadway with functional separates

I've always been a fan of Fremont designers Brittany Pham and Devin Carlson's 1940's inspired point-of-view. Though most famous for their evening looks, Fremont's spring/summer 2010 collection, which closed Los Angeles Fashion Week on Broadway last night, had military and rustic influences. For women, that meant silk playsuits, long gowns and sequined shorts layered with belted trenches and modest capes. Male models also exuded a more rugged, utilitarian vibe with warm plaid, canvas jackets and heavy boots.

For full coverage of the Fremont s/s 2010 collection, look for WGSN's Los Angeles Fashion Week report, going live the first week of November.

LA designers opt for fashion installations

In these economic times, runway shows can be a large expense for smaller independent designers. Though LA Fashion Week has only just started, I've already seen a number of designers, including Eduardo Lucero, Julia Y Renata and Maxine Dillon (pictured to the left) opt out of grand runway presentations for more pared down installations.

Though lacking the usual pomp and circumstance, installations do away with often frustrating seating assignments and fashion politics, allowing a more intimate experience as viewers can get up close and personal with the clothes, models and designers.

LA Fashion Month kicks off with Amelia Earhart inspired looks

When I took my seat at Skingraft's spring/summer 2010 show at Downtown LA Fashion Week last night, I was expecting to see models decked out to the nines in embossed leather, lace-up corsets, feather plumes and lace. However, Skingraft designers Katie Kay and Jonny Cota toned down their usual costume looks and presented really special yet wearable separates in buttery leather and easy cotton. Inspired by Amelia Earhart, the androgynous looks stayed consistent with the brand's theatrical reputation, while managing a more commercial appeal.

Complete coverage of the shows during LA Fashion Month will be available on WGSN at the beginning of November.

Find out what's hot for Spring 2010

Join Sally Lohan, WGSN's West Coast Content Director, as she previews womenswear must-haves for Spring 2010 on the opening day of LA Market Week this Friday.

The presentation also highlights key consumer attitudes that are important for your business now, as well as inspirational visual merchandising from around the world.

For more information and to register for the event, click here.

Good design: getting the message out

Icebreaker, a performance apparel brand boasting only natural materials (New Zealand Merino), put a seamstress in the window of Paragon Sporting Goods in New York yesterday in order to drive home its committment to sustainability.

Just bring in any old shirt, and she'll stitch it into a bag right before your eyes, free of charge. A positive message delivered in a fun and engaging way.

Retailers focus on dark romance

While doing What's in Store in Los Angeles this week, I've noticed that many retailers are focusing on the darkened, brooding romance trend for their fall windows. Very popular in the fall/winter 2009/10 advertising campaigns from designer brands such as APC and Fendi to Burberry, the trend is easily translated to the mass market, pictured above at Forever 21, Urban Outfitters and American Apparel.

Retailers are showing both extreme and watered-down variations. At Forever 21, all-over lace was key, including geometric lace tights paired with floral lace dresses and styled with chunky rhinestone necklaces and sexy leather gloves. More toned down looks were seen at Urban Outfitters, like a simple lace bodysuit layered with a leather motorcycle jacket and loose trousers.

Look for WGSN's full What's in Store report from Los Angeles within in the next two weeks.

LA Fashion "Month"

LAFW is rapidly turning into LA Fashion Month this season with numerous organizations putting together events in the wake of IMG's departure from the West Coast.

Which will be the next Smashbox, if any? It's a question we've been thinking about a lot at WGSN's West Coast headquarters and to kick off the season, Allyson Rees, our Retail and Events editor, and I, have been talking to many of the key players, both old and new, from designers to buyers, show organizers and more, in order to get a grip on the current LA fashion landscape.

In a press conference at the California Market Center this morning, Mayor Villaraigosa (pictured) said: "Regionally, fashion is a $28 billion industry. It's the 4th largest basic industry in the region. More than 200,000 people work and are employed in designing, producing and selling and 53,000 buyers and exhibitors come to the fashion district annually during fashion market."

"LA is no longer the design capital of the West Coast, it's one of the major design capitals of the world," he added. It's also a major source of inspiration from West Coast trends in fashion and lifestyle, not to mention celebrity culture.

Let's hope the new players in the fashion week space can capitalize on the wealth of talent we have here and get LAFW back on track. We'll be reporting on all the trends both on and off the runways. In the meantime, check out our article about the future of LAFW in WGSN's Business Resource Directory at the end of this week.

US Retail: Need to Know

US consultancy Retail Forward hosted its 2009 Strategic Outlook Conference earlier this week, and here are some key takeaways in anticipation of our full report going live on Business Resource later this month:

• Baby boomers have lost big-time to the recession, and now it’s more critical to reach Gen X, which has more spending power than its numbers suggest and is at a big-spending life stage. Also tune into Gen Y, for which technology is a need and not a want. (Lois Huff, SVP, Retail Forward)


• Brands must incentivize loyalty and repeat purchases: 1.2 million people follow Dell Outlet’s Twitter feed, and Dell raked in $3 million from Twitter followers alone. (Matt Pace, Head of Retail and Consumer Products, Compete, Inc.)

• Zappos does everything right: free shipping, CEO has huge following on Twitter, blogs from real employees, ads placed in airport security bins (where you put your shoes), website that tracks favorites, customer testimonials and a contest asking customers to submit videos of them opening their Zappos box. (Dan Stanek, EVP, Retail Forward)

• Provide uncommon access: Quicksilver has vending machines with board shorts and bikinis at the pools of Standard Hotels, and better yet, the inner waistbands are printed with must-see destinations in each city. (Mary Brett Whitfield, SVP and Director, Retail Forward)